/* ============================================================
   KERVAN Walks — Swiss editorial grid + kinetic typography
   Signature moment: Solari split-flap neighbourhood board
   Palette WCAG notes: see rapor.md
   ============================================================ */

/* ---- fonts (self-hosted, subset woff2, swap) ---- */
@font-face{font-family:'Switzer';src:url('../fonts/switzer-400.woff2') format('woff2');font-weight:400;font-display:swap;font-style:normal}
@font-face{font-family:'Switzer';src:url('../fonts/switzer-500.woff2') format('woff2');font-weight:500;font-display:swap;font-style:normal}
@font-face{font-family:'Switzer';src:url('../fonts/switzer-700.woff2') format('woff2');font-weight:700;font-display:swap;font-style:normal}
@font-face{font-family:'Melodrama';src:url('../fonts/melodrama-400.woff2') format('woff2');font-weight:400;font-display:swap;font-style:normal}
@font-face{font-family:'Melodrama';src:url('../fonts/melodrama-700.woff2') format('woff2');font-weight:700;font-display:swap;font-style:normal}
@font-face{font-family:'IBM Plex Mono';src:url('../fonts/ibmplexmono-500.woff2') format('woff2');font-weight:500;font-display:swap;font-style:normal}

:root{
  --paper:#F0EEE6;
  --paper-2:#E7E4DA;
  --ink:#101010;
  --ink-2:#55524B;      /* secondary text — 6.7:1 on paper (AA) */
  --rule:#9A968C;       /* grid rules only — decorative, no text */
  --red:#D42A2A;
  --blue:#1B4DE8;
  --board:#131313;
  --accent:var(--red);  /* brand accent (graphics/large/button bg) — JS swaps */
  --accent-tl:#B01D1D;  /* accent for SMALL text on light — 5.9:1 on paper (AA) */
  --accent-td:#F26A6A;  /* accent for SMALL text on dark  — 6.4:1 on ink   (AA) */
  --accent-ink:#fff;

  --display:'Melodrama',Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;
  --body:'Switzer',system-ui,-apple-system,'Segoe UI',sans-serif;
  --mono:'IBM Plex Mono',ui-monospace,'SFMono-Regular',monospace;

  --gap:clamp(16px,4vw,32px);
  --edge:clamp(16px,5vw,64px);
  --maxw:1320px;
  --ease:cubic-bezier(.16,.84,.44,1);
}

*,*::before,*::after{box-sizing:border-box}
html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}
body{
  margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);
  font-family:var(--body);font-weight:400;font-size:clamp(16px,1.05vw,18px);
  line-height:1.55;letter-spacing:.005em;
  text-rendering:optimizeLegibility;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;
  overflow-x:hidden;
}
img,svg,video{display:block;max-width:100%}
a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}
button{font:inherit;color:inherit;cursor:pointer}
h1,h2,h3,h4,p,ul,ol,figure{margin:0}
ul{list-style:none;padding:0}

/* ---- shared layout ---- */
.wrap{width:100%;max-width:var(--maxw);margin-inline:auto;padding-inline:var(--edge)}
.section{padding-block:clamp(64px,9vw,128px);position:relative}
.eyebrow{
  font-family:var(--mono);font-weight:500;font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.22em;
  text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2);display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.7em;
}
.eyebrow .num{color:var(--accent-tl);transition:color .5s var(--ease)}
.eyebrow::before{content:"";flex:0 0 auto;width:26px;height:2px;background:var(--accent);transition:background .5s var(--ease)}

.display{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:700;line-height:.98;letter-spacing:-.01em}
.h-hero{font-size:clamp(2.8rem,8.2vw,6.6rem)}
.h-2{font-size:clamp(2rem,5vw,3.7rem);font-weight:700}
.h-3{font-size:clamp(1.4rem,2.6vw,2.1rem);font-weight:700;font-family:var(--display)}
.lead{font-size:clamp(1.05rem,1.5vw,1.28rem);color:var(--ink-2);max-width:46ch}
.muted{color:var(--ink-2)}
.mono{font-family:var(--mono);font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.04em}

/* accessible focus + skip link */
:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--blue);outline-offset:3px;border-radius:2px}
.skip{position:absolute;left:-999px;top:0;z-index:200;background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);
  display:inline-flex;align-items:center;min-height:44px;
  padding:.7em 1.2em;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.8rem}
.skip:focus{left:8px;top:8px}

/* ---- buttons ---- */
.btn{
  --pad:1em 1.6em;
  display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.6em;padding:var(--pad);
  font-family:var(--mono);font-weight:500;font-size:.82rem;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase;
  border:2px solid var(--ink);background:var(--accent);color:var(--accent-ink);
  transition:transform .3s var(--ease),background .5s var(--ease),box-shadow .3s var(--ease);
  border-radius:0;box-shadow:6px 6px 0 var(--ink);
}
.btn:hover{transform:translate(-2px,-2px);box-shadow:8px 8px 0 var(--ink)}
.btn:active{transform:translate(2px,2px);box-shadow:2px 2px 0 var(--ink)}
.btn--ghost{background:transparent;color:var(--ink);box-shadow:none}
.btn--ghost:hover{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);transform:none}
.btn .arrow{font-size:1.1em;line-height:0}

/* =========================================================
   HEADER
   ========================================================= */
.site-head{
  position:sticky;top:0;z-index:100;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--paper) 90%,transparent);
  backdrop-filter:saturate(1.1) blur(8px);border-bottom:2px solid var(--ink);
}
.site-head .bar{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:var(--gap);min-height:66px;padding-block:.5rem}
.brand{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;min-height:44px;gap:.5ch;font-family:var(--display);font-weight:700;font-size:1.35rem;letter-spacing:-.01em}
.brand .dot{color:var(--accent);transition:color .5s var(--ease)}
.nav{margin-left:auto;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:clamp(.8rem,1.6vw,1.8rem)}
.nav a.navlink{font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.76rem;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2);padding:.4em 0;position:relative}
.nav a.navlink:hover{color:var(--ink)}
.nav a.navlink::after{content:"";position:absolute;left:0;bottom:-2px;width:0;height:2px;background:var(--accent);transition:width .25s var(--ease)}
.nav a.navlink:hover::after{width:100%}
.lang{display:flex;gap:.2rem;border:2px solid var(--ink);border-radius:0}
.lang button{min-width:44px;min-height:40px;padding:.35em .6em;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.06em;background:transparent;border:0}
.lang button[aria-pressed="true"]{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper)}
.nav .btn{--pad:.7em 1.1em}
.menu-toggle{display:none}
.nav-links{display:contents}

/* =========================================================
   HERO — split-flap board
   ========================================================= */
.hero{padding-top:clamp(40px,6vw,72px);padding-bottom:clamp(48px,7vw,96px);position:relative;overflow:hidden}
.hero .grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.05fr .95fr;gap:clamp(28px,4vw,64px);align-items:end}
.hero-copy .h-hero{margin-top:.35em}
.hero-copy .h-hero .ink-swap{color:var(--accent);transition:color .5s var(--ease);font-style:italic;font-weight:400}
.hero-copy .lead{margin-top:1.1rem}
.hero-cta{margin-top:1.8rem;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:1rem;align-items:center}
.proof{margin-top:1.6rem;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.9rem;flex-wrap:wrap;font-size:.9rem}
.proof .stars{color:var(--red);letter-spacing:.1em;font-size:1rem}
.proof .tag{font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.62rem;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;border:1px solid var(--rule);color:var(--ink-2);padding:.15em .5em}

/* split-flap board */
.board{
  background:var(--board);border:2px solid var(--ink);box-shadow:10px 10px 0 var(--ink);
  padding:clamp(16px,2.4vw,26px);color:var(--paper);position:relative;
}
.board::before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:8px;border:1px solid rgba(240,238,230,.14);pointer-events:none}
.board-top{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.66rem;letter-spacing:.18em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#8f8b82;margin-bottom:1rem}
.board-top .live{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.5ch}
.board-top .live::before{content:"";width:8px;height:8px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--accent);animation:pulse 1.8s var(--ease) infinite;transition:background .5s var(--ease)}
@keyframes pulse{0%,100%{opacity:1}50%{opacity:.25}}
.board-row{margin-bottom:.9rem}
.board-row:last-child{margin-bottom:0}
.board-row .label{font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.6rem;letter-spacing:.2em;color:#8f8b82;text-transform:uppercase;margin-bottom:.45rem}
.flaps{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:4px}
.flap{
  --w:clamp(20px,3.4vw,30px);width:var(--w);height:calc(var(--w) * 1.42);
  position:relative;background:#1c1c1c;border:1px solid #000;border-radius:3px;
  display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;overflow:hidden;
  font-family:var(--mono);font-weight:500;font-size:calc(var(--w) * .74);color:var(--paper);
  line-height:1;box-shadow:inset 0 -1px 0 rgba(255,255,255,.05);
}
.flap::after{content:"";position:absolute;left:0;right:0;top:50%;height:1px;background:rgba(0,0,0,.55);z-index:3}
.flap .ch{display:block;transform-origin:center;backface-visibility:hidden;will-change:transform}
.flap.flipping .ch{animation:flip .09s var(--ease)}
.flap.tour .ch{color:var(--paper)}
@keyframes flip{0%{transform:rotateX(0)}49%{transform:rotateX(-90deg)}51%{transform:rotateX(90deg)}100%{transform:rotateX(0)}}

.board-chips{margin-top:1.15rem;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.5rem}
.chip{
  font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.09em;text-transform:uppercase;
  display:inline-flex;align-items:center;min-height:40px;
  padding:.5em .9em;border:1px solid #3a3a3a;background:transparent;color:#cfcbc2;border-radius:0;
  transition:border-color .25s var(--ease),color .25s var(--ease),background .25s var(--ease);
}
.chip:hover{border-color:var(--paper);color:var(--paper)}
.chip[aria-pressed="true"]{background:var(--accent);color:#fff;border-color:var(--accent)}
.board-hint{margin-top:.7rem;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.6rem;letter-spacing:.14em;color:#8f8b82;text-transform:uppercase}

/* =========================================================
   TOURS — 12-col grid overlay
   ========================================================= */
.tours{position:relative}
.grid-overlay{position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:0;pointer-events:none;
  max-width:var(--maxw);margin-inline:auto;padding-inline:var(--edge);
  display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(12,1fr);gap:var(--gap);opacity:.5}
.grid-overlay span{border-left:1px solid var(--rule);border-right:1px solid var(--rule);opacity:.18}
.tours .wrap{position:relative;z-index:1}
.tours-head{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:flex-end;gap:var(--gap);flex-wrap:wrap;margin-bottom:clamp(28px,4vw,52px)}
.tours-head .h-2{max-width:14ch}
.tour-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(12,1fr);gap:var(--gap)}
.tour-card{
  grid-column:span 4;border-top:2px solid var(--ink);padding-top:1rem;
  display:flex;flex-direction:column;min-height:100%;position:relative;
  transition:transform .35s var(--ease);
}
.tour-card:hover{transform:translateY(-4px)}
.tour-card .tc-top{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline;gap:1ch}
.tour-card .tc-num{font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.78rem;color:var(--ink-2);letter-spacing:.06em}
.tour-card .cat{font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.6rem;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;padding:.2em .55em;border:1px solid currentColor}
.cat.flavour{color:#B01D1D}
.cat.canvas{color:#1740C4}
.tour-card h3{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:700;font-size:clamp(1.4rem,2.3vw,1.95rem);line-height:1.02;margin:.55rem 0 .5rem}
.tour-card .tc-desc{color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.95rem;flex:1}
.tour-card .tc-meta{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.4rem .9rem;margin-top:1rem;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.05em;color:var(--ink-2)}
.tour-card .tc-meta b{color:var(--ink);font-weight:500}
.tour-card .tc-img{margin-top:1rem;aspect-ratio:3/2;background:var(--paper-2);position:relative;overflow:hidden;border:1px solid var(--rule)}
.tour-card .tc-img svg{width:100%;height:100%}

/* =========================================================
   ROUTE + STOPS
   ========================================================= */
.route{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper)}
.route .eyebrow{color:#9d9992}
.route .eyebrow .num,.book .eyebrow .num{color:var(--accent-td)}
.route .eyebrow::before{background:var(--accent)}
.route-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.1fr .9fr;gap:clamp(28px,5vw,64px);align-items:start;margin-top:2rem}
.route-map{border:2px solid #2a2a2a;background:#171717;aspect-ratio:4/3;position:relative;overflow:hidden}
.route-map svg{width:100%;height:100%}
.route-map .rt-path{fill:none;stroke:var(--accent);stroke-width:3;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;transition:stroke .5s var(--ease)}
.route-map .rt-base{fill:none;stroke:#2b2b2b;stroke-width:3;stroke-dasharray:2 8;stroke-linecap:round}
.route-map .stop{fill:var(--paper);stroke:var(--board);stroke-width:2;opacity:0}
.route-map .stop-lbl{fill:#cfcbc2;font-family:'IBM Plex Mono',monospace;font-size:11px;opacity:0}
.route-info h3{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:700;font-size:clamp(1.8rem,3.4vw,2.6rem);margin-bottom:.3rem}
.route-info .rt-cat{font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--accent-td);transition:color .5s var(--ease)}
.stops-list{margin-top:1.6rem;counter-reset:stop}
.stops-list li{display:flex;gap:1rem;padding:.85rem 0;border-top:1px solid #2a2a2a;align-items:baseline}
.stops-list li::before{counter-increment:stop;content:counter(stop,decimal-leading-zero);font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.8rem;color:var(--accent-td);flex:0 0 2ch;transition:color .5s var(--ease)}
.stops-list .st-name{font-weight:500}
.stops-list .st-note{color:#9d9992;font-size:.9rem;margin-left:auto;text-align:right;max-width:20ch}

/* =========================================================
   GUIDE / ABOUT
   ========================================================= */
.guide-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.85fr 1.15fr;gap:clamp(28px,5vw,64px);align-items:center}
.guide-media{position:relative;border:2px solid var(--ink);box-shadow:10px 10px 0 var(--ink);aspect-ratio:4/5;overflow:hidden;background:var(--board)}
.guide-media video,.guide-media .portrait{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.guide-media .portrait{display:flex}
.guide-media figcaption{position:absolute;left:0;bottom:0;right:0;background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.64rem;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;padding:.6em .9em;display:flex;justify-content:space-between}
.guide-body .h-2{margin:.6rem 0 1rem}
.guide-body .lead{max-width:52ch}
.guide-credentials{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:1px;background:var(--rule);border:1px solid var(--rule);margin-top:1.8rem}
.guide-credentials div{background:var(--paper);padding:1rem}
.guide-credentials .n{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:700;font-size:1.8rem;line-height:1}
.guide-credentials .k{font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.64rem;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2);margin-top:.4rem}

/* =========================================================
   HOW IT WORKS
   ========================================================= */
.steps{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:var(--gap);margin-top:2.5rem;counter-reset:step}
.step{border-top:2px solid var(--ink);padding-top:1.1rem}
.step .s-num{font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--accent-tl);font-size:.85rem;letter-spacing:.06em;transition:color .5s var(--ease)}
.step h3{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:700;font-size:1.5rem;margin:.4rem 0 .5rem}
.step p{color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.95rem}

/* =========================================================
   SOCIAL PROOF
   ========================================================= */
.proof-sec{background:var(--paper-2)}
.reviews{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:var(--gap);margin-top:2.4rem}
.review{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--rule);padding:1.5rem;display:flex;flex-direction:column}
.review .stars{color:var(--red);letter-spacing:.1em;margin-bottom:.7rem}
.review blockquote{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:1.22rem;line-height:1.3;flex:1}
.review .who{margin-top:1.1rem;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.7rem;letter-spacing:.06em;color:var(--ink-2)}
.sample-note{margin-top:1.4rem;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.64rem;letter-spacing:.08em;color:var(--ink-2)}

/* =========================================================
   FAQ
   ========================================================= */
.faq-grid{margin-top:2.2rem;border-top:2px solid var(--ink)}
.faq details{border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
.faq summary{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;padding:1.15rem 0;display:flex;gap:1rem;align-items:baseline;font-family:var(--display);font-weight:700;font-size:clamp(1.15rem,2vw,1.5rem)}
.faq summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.faq summary .q-num{font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.78rem;font-weight:500;color:var(--accent-tl);flex:0 0 3ch;transition:color .5s var(--ease)}
.faq summary .q-sign{margin-left:auto;font-family:var(--mono);font-weight:500;transition:transform .3s var(--ease)}
.faq details[open] summary .q-sign{transform:rotate(45deg)}
.faq .a{padding:0 0 1.3rem calc(3ch + 1rem);color:var(--ink-2);max-width:70ch}

/* =========================================================
   BOOKING
   ========================================================= */
.book{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper)}
.book .eyebrow{color:#9d9992}
.book-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:clamp(28px,5vw,64px);margin-top:2rem;align-items:start}
.book-lede .h-2{margin:.5rem 0 1rem}
.book-lede .lead{color:#c9c5bc}
.trust{margin-top:1.8rem;display:grid;gap:.8rem}
.trust li{display:flex;gap:.7rem;align-items:flex-start;font-size:.95rem;color:#dedacf}
.trust li .tk{color:var(--accent-td);font-family:var(--mono);transition:color .5s var(--ease)}
.wa-line{margin-top:1.6rem;font-size:.9rem;color:#c9c5bc}
.wa-line a{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;min-height:40px;color:var(--paper);border-bottom:2px solid var(--accent);transition:border-color .5s var(--ease)}
form.book-form{background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);border:2px solid var(--ink);box-shadow:10px 10px 0 var(--accent);padding:clamp(20px,3vw,34px);transition:box-shadow .5s var(--ease)}
.field{margin-bottom:1.1rem}
.field label{display:block;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2);margin-bottom:.4rem}
.field input,.field select,.field textarea{
  width:100%;padding:.8em .9em;border:2px solid var(--ink);background:var(--paper);border-radius:0;
  font:inherit;font-size:.95rem;color:var(--ink);
}
.field textarea{min-height:88px;resize:vertical}
.field-row{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:1.1rem}
form.book-form .btn{width:100%;justify-content:center;margin-top:.4rem}
.form-note{margin-top:.9rem;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.64rem;letter-spacing:.06em;color:var(--ink-2)}
.form-status{margin-top:1rem;font-size:.9rem;font-weight:500;min-height:1.2em}
.form-status[data-ok="1"]{color:var(--blue)}

/* =========================================================
   FOOTER
   ========================================================= */
.site-foot{background:var(--paper);border-top:2px solid var(--ink);padding-block:clamp(40px,6vw,72px)}
.foot-grid{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:var(--gap);flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:flex-start}
.foot-brand .brand{font-size:1.8rem}
.foot-brand p{color:var(--ink-2);margin-top:.6rem;max-width:32ch;font-size:.92rem}
.foot-cols{display:flex;gap:clamp(24px,5vw,72px);flex-wrap:wrap}
.foot-col h4{font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.66rem;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2);margin-bottom:.8rem}
.foot-col a{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;min-height:40px;min-width:44px;padding:.3em 0;color:var(--ink);font-size:.92rem}
.foot-col a:hover{color:var(--accent-tl)}
.foot-bottom{margin-top:2.5rem;padding-top:1.4rem;border-top:1px solid var(--rule);display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem;flex-wrap:wrap;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.66rem;letter-spacing:.06em;color:var(--ink-2)}

/* =========================================================
   /rehber page
   ========================================================= */
.doc{max-width:760px}
.doc .eyebrow{margin-bottom:1rem}
.doc h1{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:700;font-size:clamp(2.2rem,6vw,3.6rem);line-height:1;margin-bottom:1rem}
.doc h2{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:700;font-size:clamp(1.4rem,3vw,2rem);margin:2.4rem 0 .8rem}
.doc p{color:var(--ink-2);margin-bottom:1rem;max-width:66ch}
.doc ul.bul{margin:0 0 1rem;display:grid;gap:.5rem}
.doc ul.bul li{padding-left:1.4rem;position:relative;color:var(--ink-2)}
.doc ul.bul li::before{content:"—";position:absolute;left:0;color:var(--accent)}
.doc .back{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;min-height:44px;gap:.5ch;margin-top:2.5rem;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.78rem;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase;border-bottom:2px solid var(--accent);padding-bottom:.2em}
.doc code{font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.85em;background:var(--paper-2);padding:.1em .4em}

/* =========================================================
   RESPONSIVE
   ========================================================= */
@media (max-width:960px){
  .hero .grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:2.5rem}
  .route-grid,.guide-grid,.book-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .guide-media{max-width:420px}
  .tour-card{grid-column:span 6}
  .steps,.reviews{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .grid-overlay{display:none}
}
@media (max-width:680px){
  .nav .nav-links{position:fixed;inset:66px 0 auto 0;background:var(--paper);border-bottom:2px solid var(--ink);
    flex-direction:column;align-items:flex-start;gap:0;padding:.5rem var(--edge) 1.2rem;display:none}
  .nav .nav-links.open{display:flex}
  .nav-links a.navlink{padding:.9em 0;width:100%;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);font-size:.9rem}
  .nav-links .btn{margin-top:1rem;width:100%;justify-content:center}
  .nav{gap:.6rem}
  .menu-toggle{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;min-height:40px;order:3;padding:.5em .8em;border:2px solid var(--ink);background:transparent;font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.72rem}
  .tour-card{grid-column:span 12}
  .field-row{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .steps,.reviews,.guide-credentials{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .guide-credentials{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}
  .tours-head{align-items:flex-start}
  .flap{--w:22px}
}

/* =========================================================
   REDUCED MOTION
   ========================================================= */
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){
  *,*::before,*::after{animation-duration:.001ms!important;animation-iteration-count:1!important;
    transition-duration:.001ms!important;scroll-behavior:auto!important}
  .flap.flipping .ch{animation:none}
  .board-top .live::before{animation:none}
}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth}